A final option is a brush draught excluder for keyholes. The bristles prevent chilly draughts but allow keys through. 4. Don't forget to deal with the letterbox Draught-proofing costs will vary depending on how much and which areas of your home you want to draught-proof. Fitting brush draught excluders or flaps inside your letterbox will really add to how thermally efficient your front door is. This beautiful letterbox is from Gipsy Hill Hardware . (Image credit: Gipsy Hill Hardware) 5. Use a draught excluder at the base of the door

Brush strips usually come in the form of a thin metal bar, with the brush fixed to the bottom. These bars can be cut to length and are normally screwed into place. Some are designed to slide onto the bottom of the door before being fastened with screws. You need to ensure that the bristles on the strip reach the floor. Areas to focus on are floor boards, skirting boards, where window and door frames meet the wall and the ceiling-to-wall junctions. The less obvious areas are keyholes, kitchen cupboards (where pipes are likely to penetrate walls), loft hatches and downlights. Metal or plastic strips with brushes or wipers attached, which are long-lasting, but cost a little more. Draught-proofing external doors can stop a lot of heat from escaping, and won’t cost you much. There are four main areas to consider draught-proofing: Two poor quality bits of plastic with very fiddly tape for attaching to the keyhole. Absolutely no good unless attaching to a completely flat surface - the slight dimpling on the metal surround on my door meant it fell off immediately!! I doubt the plastic bits would have lasted long anyway. To be honest it feels like a bit of a rip off Two poor quality bits of plastic with very fiddly tape for attaching to the keyhole. Absolutely no good unless attaching to a completely flat surface - the slight dimpling on the metal surround on my door meant it fell off immediately!! I doubt the plastic bits would have lasted long anyway. To be honest it feels like a bit of a rip off

Draught-free homes are comfortable at lower temperatures – so you may be able to turn down your thermostat, saving even more on your energy bills. BeaverCraft Comfort Bird Wood Carving Kit - Whittling Starter Kit, Inc Knife, Basswood, Pattern, Strop, Compound, Tape I like this product, it works well, and is properly made. However, more detailed instructions should be supplied. Make sure the strip is the right size to fill the gap in your window. If the strip is too big, it will get crushed and you may not be able to close the window. If it’s too small, there will still be a gap.

Draught-proofing is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to save energy – and money – in any type of building. And, finally, how about splashing out on a new front door entirely? Obviously this one is going to cost you, but if you have been mulling over front door ideas for some time and feel that your home's kerb appeal could do with a boost, then the front door is most definitely the place to start. Remember to remove the draught-proofing if you decide to light a fire. Find out more about draught-proofing your chimney. Draught proofing a front door should be high on your to-do list this winter —plus, it could lower your energy bills. Here's how it's done

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The bottom edges of front doors can be real hotspots (or should that be cold spots?) for draughts. For this reason, fitting brush strips or hinged flap draught excluders to this section of the door is highly recommended. Draught proofing is generally considered to be DIY work — if you can handle a screw driver and a silicone gun you should be fine. If you choose to employ people to do the work just bear in mind that it is not complex and does not need expensive specialist skills. How to Find Draughts for Draught Proofing? Internal doors between two heated rooms don’t need draught-proofing, as you don’t lose energy when warm air circulates.

For sliding sash windows, foam strips do not work well. It’s best to fit brush strips or consult a professional. For windows that don’t open, use a silicone sealant. If you’re thinking of replacing your windows, consider installing energy efficient windows. Breathe a sigh of relief —no tools required for this one. Soft, long cushions or bolsters designed to be pushed up to the base of the door, covering any gaps between the bottom edge and the frame, are surprisingly effective. Thereafter, the movement of people around the house, moving in and out, and naturally opening and closing windows and doors will deal with other ventilation needs.Moving in 2002 to a small-holding in South Wales, providing as it did access to a wider range of natural resources, fanned his enthusiasm for sustainability. He went on to install renewable technology at the property, including biomass boiler and wind turbine. this initial burst of enthusiasm lead to him trying (and failing) to build a biogas digester to convert pig manure into fuel, at a Kent oast-house, his first conversion project. If you don’t use your fireplace, your chimney is probably a source of unnecessary draughts. There are two main ways to draught-proof a chimney: Controlled ventilation will reduce condensation, maintain a healthy atmosphere and prevent damp and mould growth by letting in air where it is needed. Draughts, however, let in too much air in the wrong place at the wrong time, making draught proofing the cheapest and most effective way to save energy, and money, especially in older buildings How to Draught Proof Your Home 1. Draught Proofing Doors If you’re happy carrying out simple DIY tasks, draught-proofing will be no problem. However, some homes, especially older homes with single glazing, will be more difficult to draught-proof.